Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result. You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully. Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so. This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly. Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna approximately 3" 75 mm from the right edge, or right next to the home button re-insert the opening pick to its full depth. Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.
The iPad volume control doesn't work. I h… - Apple Community
Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it. Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad. If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working.
If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it. If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9.
iPad 3 Wi-Fi Power & Volume Button Replacement.
Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner. If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work. Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" 50 mm from the bottom of the iPad. Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.
Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable. Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers. Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.
Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad. Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down. Using a plastic opening tool or a spudger, lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. Be careful as you move the LCD. The ribbon cable is fragile and may break if it is flexed too much.
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Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. If necessary, peel back the piece of tape that secures the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the adhesive underneath the digitizer ribbon cable. Very carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board.
Peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to release the adhesive securing the cable to the rear aluminum case. Using your fingers, pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame.
Power button/volume buttons not working after screen replacement.
Peel back and remove the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors securing the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable, releasing the adhesive securing it to the rear aluminum frame. Pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the front-facing camera connector off of its socket on the headphone jack assembly.
Slide the spudger to the right, releasing the adhesive holding down the camera cable. After successfully replacing an iPad Pro 9. These are different flex cables so this tells me something with the screen is potentially preventing the functions. Also, oddly enough with the accessibility on the on screen power button and volume buttons will not work either.
I have reconnected the old screen to see if it was a screen issue but the buttons still do not work. The power button will turn on the iPad initially as well as wake the screen but it will not put the iPad to sleep nor will it prompt a power off if held down. The battery was disconnected prior to any other cables were disconnect and physical everything in the device is clean and connectors inspected.
Minho refectio. I wonder if you have found a resolution to this issue. Based on what you say, you have tried the most obvious things.
I would try a Hard Reset and if data retention is not an issue, a full restore. Hey thanks for the response. I actually got everything working again, it seems to have been a software issue after the screen install for some reason.
Power button and volume buttons worked again right away and his been working good for a few days now! My son is greatful! Thanks much for getting my sound back on. Sound was working on internet, but not for Ipad internal features. Performing the correct order of on and off with side switch and the mute selection in settings did the trick. Thanks again!
And I am also having the problem occasionally of when I remove my headphones u can no longer hear sound unless you turn iPad off and back in but as if right now no sound at all. I am so thankful for this help. Thank goodness. I just noticed this happening a couple of days ago and it was driving me crazy. Thanks for the post! I tried everything in this including checking and using iPad manual.
I still have no volume on my iPad.
I cannot listen to music. It shows ths songs playing. I have checked to see if the pause button is on but it does not show that it is in pause mode..
Plusbove tried resetting it to no avail. How frustrating. Also no sounds when p,aching games or any other feature. This only works partially for me. When I go back to mute, the sound is off again. I have no mute button from the home page on the bottom. The new ios7 update took it away. This sucks!!! When I switch to music on my IPad it switches back to the general screen before I can start listening to music.
What must I do to rectify the problem?
A big big thank you! I was so upset thinking something happened to my son;s I Pad. He uses it as a communication device. His communication program was still working but all his other apps were not.